It was snowing as we arrived at the enchanting village of Rothenburg in Germany. The outside temperature was 34 degrees F and the rain turned to snow but didn’t stick. It was also pretty cold here during our visit but that didn’t take away our enthusiasm for this charming hamlet next to the Tauber River.
Our 600 year old hotel, the Gasthof Goldener Greifen, was located inside the old walls of the original town, two doors down from the center square, and we took an afternoon Walking Tour to quickly get acquainted with this historical town. We both caught colds this week, so with noses running, ears and hands chilled, we braved the weather to learn about the fortification walls, buildings, culture, and history of the city, then quickly retired to rest and get some dinner. Although Rothenburg can become somewhat crowded during the day, in the early mornings and evenings it is really rather deserted and Sue took the opportunity to photograph the town during those times.
The old St. Jakobskirche Church was impressive. Its altar was built in 1466, and the church was consecrated Catholic in 1485, then became Protestant in 1544 (the mayor studied in school with Martin Luther). The church also had prime real estate, located right on the intersection of the Via Romana and Camino de Santiago. We toured the church to see the stained glass windows that were installed in 1500, the old altar, and the Altar of the Holy Blood which had an elaborate wood carving of the last supper as the centerpiece. Truly exquisite, with Judas, not Jesus, in the very center and holding his bag of 30 silver pieces, as the artist believed that it was Judas’ role as instigator that propelled the crucifixion of Jesus. Each year Judas is removed from the carving on Mandy Thursday until Easter!
The two-mile walk on top of the ancient wall of Rothenburg was a must-do for our second day agenda. Ted was bending over most of the time as the walkway was not built for a tall man. We learned that after WWII when the city leaders needed money to restore the city they sold rights to one meter of the wall which turned out to be a very successful fundraiser that continues today.
Sue took the evening Night Watchman’s tour which chronicled life during medieval times. It really was very informative and a lot of fun.
Even though we didn’t feel our best during the visit, we’re grateful for the chance to explore beautiful Rothenburg.